2007 Cadillac CTS electrical system problems

“Vehicle primarily failed while parked at owner residence [XXX] and remained inoperable for approximately three weeks prior to tow to Cadillac dealership. The ignition key became trapped and could not be removed. A manual override release beneath the driver-side steering column was required to free the key — confirming the lock was held electronically, not mechanically jammed. Fault confirmed by authorized Cadillac dealer: intermittent electrical fault within the shifter assembly lock mechanism. A similar intermittent concern was previously documented on this vehicle in 2011 (logged as "Customer Concern Not Duplicated"), establishing a recurring pattern. GM Technical Service Bulletin 07-07-30-032D (2006–2011 Cadillac CTS, automatic transmission) explicitly documents this exact condition: key sticking, Shift to Park DIC message, shifter binding, and battery drain. OEM replacement part is now discontinued. Manufacturer declined goodwill or recall coverage. Dealer refuses repair unless owner assumes full financial responsibility for a used part with no warranty and no guarantee against recurrence. Safety concern: ignition/shift interlock failure causing vehicle…”

“The contact owns a 2007 Cadillac CTS. The contact stated upon parking the vehicle, he attempted to release the ignition key from the ignition switch however, the key remained stuck inside the ignition switch. The message Thief was displayed. The contact was able to release the ignition key after several minutes. The contact stated upon entering the ignition key inside the ignition switch and starting the vehicle in his garage, the message Thief was displayed. The contact turned off the vehicle but could not release the ignition key from the ignition switch. The contact stated that the ignition key had remained stuck inside the ignition key for a week. Additionally, the contact stated that the gear shifter had seized in park(P). An unknown dealer was notified of the failure and advised the contact to take the vehicle in for repair. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 99,000. The consumer stated after having the vehicle repaired air condition, cruise control, and speedometer stopped working.”

“The contact owns a 2007 Cadillac CTS. The contact stated while driving 30 mph, the ignition switch failed, and the steering wheel locked causing the contact to lose control of the vehicle. The vehicle crashed on the driver's side on-ramp. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact and his daughter sustained injuries to the back but did not seek medical assistance. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence, then to the dealer. The contact stated that the failure was related to NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V394000 (Electrical System). The contact received the recall notification after the crash. The contact stated that the dealer refused to provide a diagnostic test on the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The contact was informed that the vehicle owner was responsible for the cost of the repair. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.”

“When driving my car will shut off by its self and it has done this the whole time I have had the car... When it shuts off the car gets reads stuck in park because the key gets stuck in ignition... When nights are on and I turn right my height lights come on... And my passenger air bag light came on and won't go off”

“THE SELLER LIED ABOUT EVERYTHING! THE FIRST QUESTION I ASKED WAS IF THE CAR WAS IN AN ACCIDENT. HE BRAGGED ABOUT BEING A MECHANIC, AND DOING ALL THE WORK ON THE CAR, SO EVERYTHING IN THE CAR IS IN, "TIP TOP SHAPE." HE REPLIED, "NO, NEVER!" HE DID NOT ALLOW US TO RIDE THE CAR ON THE INTERSTATE BEFORE THE PURCHASE, CLAIMING IT WAS ILLEGAL. 10 MINS AFTER LEAVING THE CAR LOT, THE CAR CUTS OFF AND IS UNABLE TO CRANK BACK UP. THE SELLER MEETS US AND CLAIMS IT THE BATTERY. A "NEW" BATTERY WAS PLACED IN THE VEHICLE, BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. MY FIANC, WHO IS NOT A MECHANIC, TOLD HIM MORE THAN ONCE, THAT THE PROBLEM WAS NOT THE BATTERY, BUT THE ALTERNATOR. HE GOT THE CAR TO CRANK. AS WE ARE RIDING DOWN THE INTERSTATE, THE CAR CUTS OFF, AND WE ARE LEFT AIMLESSLY ROLLING AND ARE UNABLE TO CONTROL THE WHEEL. PLUS, THE ELECTRICITY IN THE CAR IS OFF SO WE CAN'T EVEN TURN ON OUR HAZARD LIGHTS TO CAUTION THE OTHER CARS ON THE ROAD. AFTER SPEAKING TO THE SELLER, ONCE AGAIN, HE TELLS US THERE IS NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT IT AND WILL NOT CANCEL THE DEAL. WE'VE ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR 4-5 HOURS. AFTER SPEAKING TO SEVERAL MECHANICS, THEY QUICKLY CONFIRM THAT THE ALTERNATOR IS THE…”

“VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN OUR HOME GARAGE. IT WOULD NOT START, IT WOULD START WHEN JUMPED BUT DIED SHORTLY AFTER. WE HAD THE BATTERY TESTED, IT WAS BAD, WE REPLACED W A NEW BATTERY. CAR STARTED RIGHT UP, BUT WOULD NOT CUT POWER ONCE THE KEY WAS REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION. CAR DINGS AND DASH AND RADIO ARE ON AS IF KEYS ARE STILL IN THE IGNITION.”