How to Change a Flat Tire
How to change a flat tire safely, from finding a safe spot and the jack point to tightening lug nuts in a star pattern, plus spare tire limits and sealant kits.
On this page· 6 sections
Changing a flat is one of the few car skills everyone should know, and it takes about 20 to 30 minutes the first time. The steps are simple; the part that matters most is doing it somewhere safe and lifting the car correctly. Practice once in your driveway on a nice day, so the first real attempt is not on a dark shoulder in the rain.
What you need (check now, not later)
Most of this came with your car. Find it before you need it.
- Spare tire (full-size or compact "donut"), with correct pressure.
- Jack and lug wrench, usually under the cargo floor or in a side panel.
- Wheel lock key, if your car has locking lug nuts. It is often in the glovebox or with the jack.
- Owner's manual, which shows the jack points and spare procedure.
- Wheel wedges or a couple of large rocks or bricks.
- Gloves, a flashlight and reflective triangles.
- Optional but useful: a small piece of plywood to support the jack on soft ground, and a tire pressure gauge.
Step by step
Step 1: Get to a safe spot
- Signal, slow down and pull as far off the road as possible onto flat, firm ground. A parking lot is ideal.
- Turn on your hazard lights.
- Put the car in Park (or in gear for a manual) and set the parking brake firmly.
- Have passengers get out and wait well away from traffic.
- Set out reflective triangles behind the car if you have them.
Step 2: Wedge the wheels
Place wheel wedges against the tire diagonally opposite the flat. Flat on the front left? Wedge the rear right, in front of and behind it if you can. This keeps the car from rolling once it is lifted.
Step 3: Loosen the lug nuts (on the ground)
- Remove the hubcap or wheel cover if there is one. Some pry off; others are held by the lug nuts themselves.
- Fit the lug wrench onto each nut and turn counterclockwise about half a turn to one full turn. Do not remove them yet.
- If a nut is very tight, put the wrench handle horizontal and press down with your foot, using your body weight. Never use the jack to get extra leverage.
- If your car has a wheel lock, use the lock key on that nut.
Loosening first, while the tire is on the ground, keeps the wheel from spinning.
Step 4: Jack up the car
- Find the jack point in your owner's manual. On most cars it is a reinforced pinch weld just behind the front wheel or just ahead of the rear wheel, often marked by notches or an arrow. Using the wrong spot can bend the body or let the car slip.
- Place the jack on firm, level ground (plywood under it on soft ground or asphalt on a hot day).
- Raise the jack until it meets the jack point squarely, then keep raising until the flat tire is about 2 to 3 inches off the ground. A flat tire needs more clearance than an inflated spare.
Step 5: Remove the flat
- Unscrew the lug nuts fully and put them somewhere they will not roll away, such as the upturned hubcap.
- Grip the tire at the sides and pull it straight toward you. If it is stuck to the hub with corrosion, a firm kick to the sidewall usually frees it (keep the car stable and your body clear).
- Lay the flat on its side, under the car's side sill next to the jack, as an extra precaution.
Step 6: Mount the spare
- Line up the holes in the spare with the wheel studs (rotate the spare to match).
- Push it fully onto the hub until it sits flat.
- Thread each lug nut on by hand, with the tapered or cone side facing the wheel, until snug. Hand-threading avoids cross-threading.
- With the wrench, snug the nuts lightly in a star (crisscross) pattern: tighten one, then the one roughly opposite, and so on. This centers the wheel evenly.
Step 7: Lower the car and torque the nuts
- Lower the jack until the tire carries the car's weight, then remove the jack.
- Tighten each lug nut fully, again in a star pattern, pushing firmly on the wrench.
- Go around once more to make sure each is tight.
Lug nut torque specs vary by vehicle. Many passenger cars fall roughly in the 75 to 100 lb-ft range, and trucks and SUVs often higher; your owner's manual lists the exact figure. Have the torque checked with a torque wrench as soon as practical, and recheck after the first 50 to 100 miles, since nuts can settle.
Step 8: Stow everything and check the spare
- Put the flat, jack, wrench and wheel lock key back in the car.
- Check the spare's pressure as soon as you can; spares often lose air sitting unused. Compact spares typically need around 60 psi; the correct pressure is on the spare or the door placard.
- Pick up your triangles and wedges.
Driving on a compact spare
Compact spares are temporary. Their exact limits are printed on the tire or a label on the wheel, and in your owner's manual.
| Compact ("donut") spare | Full-size matching spare | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical speed limit | Often 50 mph | Same as your other tires |
| Typical distance | Often around 50 to 70 miles; check the label | No special limit if it matches |
| Handling | Reduced grip, longer braking | Normal |
| Warning lights | ABS, traction or TPMS lights may come on | TPMS may still warn if no sensor |
- Typical speed limit
- Compact ("donut") spare
- Often 50 mph
- Full-size matching spare
- Same as your other tires
- Typical distance
- Compact ("donut") spare
- Often around 50 to 70 miles; check the label
- Full-size matching spare
- No special limit if it matches
- Handling
- Compact ("donut") spare
- Reduced grip, longer braking
- Full-size matching spare
- Normal
- Warning lights
- Compact ("donut") spare
- ABS, traction or TPMS lights may come on
- Full-size matching spare
- TPMS may still warn if no sensor
Drive gently, leave extra following distance, avoid hard cornering, and get the original tire repaired or replaced promptly. On AWD vehicles, extended driving on a smaller spare can stress the drivetrain; check the manual.
Using a sealant and inflator kit
If your car has no spare:
- Check that the puncture is in the tread, not the sidewall, and is small (for example, a nail or screw). Leave the object in place.
- Follow the kit's instructions exactly: typically connect the sealant bottle to the valve, plug the compressor into the 12-volt socket, and inflate to the placard pressure.
- Drive a few miles at low speed to spread the sealant, then recheck pressure.
- Get to a tire shop soon. Tell them you used sealant, since it must be cleaned out and some TPMS sensors need cleaning or replacement afterward.
Repair or replace the flat?
Many tread punctures up to about a quarter inch can be repaired properly, using a combination plug-patch from the inside of the tire. A tire usually cannot be repaired safely if:
- The damage is in or near the sidewall or shoulder.
- The puncture is larger than the shop's repair limit.
- The tire was driven on flat for a distance, which can damage the internal structure.
- The tread is already near the replacement point; see how to check tire pressure and tread depth.
If replacing one tire on an AWD vehicle, ask the shop to compare tread depth on all four; some systems require closely matched tires. Use our tire size calculator to decode your size and load rating, and check for tire recalls on our recalls pages.
Compare two sizes and decode load index and speed rating.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to change a tire?
About 15 to 30 minutes for most people, longer the first time. Practicing once at home makes the roadside job much faster and safer.
How far can I drive on a donut spare?
Usually up to about 50 to 70 miles at no more than 50 mph, but the exact limits are printed on the spare or in your owner's manual. Replace or repair the original tire as soon as you can.
Which way do lug nuts loosen?
Counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten ("righty-tighty, lefty-loosey"), on almost all passenger cars. Loosen them before you jack the car up.
Do I need to reset the TPMS after changing a tire?
Often the light stays on with a spare because the spare may not have a sensor. It should go off once the repaired tire is back on and inflated, sometimes after a short drive. Some cars need a reset procedure; check the manual or see why the TPMS light stays on.
Can I drive on a flat tire to get somewhere safe?
Only slowly and for a very short distance, to get out of danger. Driving on a flat usually ruins the tire and can damage the wheel, but your safety matters more than the tire.
Key takeaways
- Safety first: get fully off the road, hazards on, parking brake set and wheels wedged.
- Loosen lug nuts before lifting, and lift only at the jack point in your manual.
- Never put any part of your body under a car held only by a jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern, then recheck after 50 to 100 miles.
- Compact spares are temporary; follow the speed and distance limits on the tire.
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General guidance, not professional advice. Intervals, specifications and legal requirements vary by vehicle, manufacturer and state: your owner’s manual, a qualified mechanic and your state agency come first. Costs mentioned are estimates. Our data sources.