What Paperwork Do I Need to Sell My Car?

The paperwork is what legally moves a car from you to the buyer. Get it wrong and you can end up responsible for the buyer's parking tickets, tolls or even an accident, or the buyer may be unable to register the car. Get it right and the sale is clean and final.

Requirements vary by state, so use this guide as a checklist and confirm the details on your state's DMV website before the sale.

The title proves ownership. It is the single most important document in the sale.

Before the sale

• Find it. If it is lost, apply for a duplicate from your state's DMV. This can take time, so do it before you list.
• Check the name. Your name must be on it. If there are two owners joined by "and," both may need to sign; if joined by "or," either may sign in many states. Check your state's rule.
• Check for a lien. If a lender is listed, you need a lien release or a payoff (see below).
• Check the VIN matches the car's dashboard plate and door-jamb sticker. Our VIN decoder confirms the factory year, make and model for the listing.

At the sale

• Fill in the buyer's name and address, sale date, sale price and odometer reading in the sections provided.
• Sign exactly as your name appears on the front.
• Use the ink color your state asks for, and do not use correction fluid or cross things out. Errors can void a title and force you to apply for a duplicate.
• Some states require the seller's signature to be notarized. If so, arrange a notary before the buyer arrives; many banks offer this.

Federal law requires the seller to disclose the mileage on most vehicle transfers, and to state whether it is accurate. On many titles there is a dedicated section for this. Some states use a separate form. Under federal rules, vehicles from model year 2011 and newer generally need disclosure for 20 years, while older vehicles were exempt after 10 years; see NHTSA's odometer fraud page (opens in a new tab) and check your DMV for how it applies.

Write the mileage without tenths, and check the box that applies: actual mileage, exceeds mechanical limits, or not the actual mileage.

A bill of sale is a receipt for the car. Some states require one; even where they do not, it protects both sides. It should include:

• Seller and buyer names, addresses and signatures
• Year, make, model, VIN and odometer reading
• Sale price and date
• Payment method
• An "as is, no warranty" statement if that is the deal

Many DMVs publish their own bill of sale form, which is the safest choice. Our bill of sale guide walks through each field. Make two copies, one for each of you.

If you have a loan, the lender is the lienholder and usually holds the title (or is listed on it). To sell:

1. 1Call the lender and ask for the payoff amount, good through a specific date, and their process for a private sale.
2. 2Choose a method:

• Meet the buyer at your lender's branch, if it has one. The buyer pays, the loan is paid off, and the lender releases the title.
• Pay the loan off yourself first, get the title, then sell.
• If you owe more than the buyer is paying, you will need to cover the difference at the payoff.

3. 3Get the lien release in writing, or a signed-off title, and give it to the buyer. In some states the lender sends the title directly to the new owner or electronically to the DMV.

Many states use electronic titles for financed cars, so there may be no paper title until the loan is paid. Your lender and DMV can tell you how long the release takes.

Many states have a form or online filing that tells the DMV you no longer own the car. Depending on the state, it might be called a release of liability, notice of sale, notice of transfer or seller's report of sale.

File it right after the sale, usually within a few days. This helps protect you if the buyer gets tickets, runs tolls or has an accident before registering the car. Keep the confirmation.

Some states require a smog (emissions) or safety inspection certificate for a transfer, and in some the seller is responsible for providing it. Check your DMV's rules for who must get it and how recent it must be.

These are not legally required but often help you get a better price:

• Service records and receipts. Buyers pay more for a documented history. See how service records raise resale value. If you have tracked service in your CarManager garage, you can share an owner-entered history report.
• Owner's manual and spare keys.
• Warranty paperwork, if any factory or extended warranty transfers to the next owner.
• Recall completion records. Check for open recalls on NHTSA's recall lookup (opens in a new tab) and get them done before selling; recall repairs are free at a dealer.

• Plates. In many states, plates stay with the seller; in others they stay with the car. Remove yours if required.
• Insurance. Cancel or move coverage once the sale and transfer notice are complete.
• Registration refund. Some states refund unused registration if you return the plates.
• Tolls and apps. Remove toll transponders and unlink connected-car apps and garage door openers. Reset the infotainment system to erase your phone, contacts and addresses.
• Copies. Keep photos of the signed title (front and back), the bill of sale, the buyer's ID and the transfer notice confirmation.

If you sell to a dealer or an online buyer, they usually handle most of the paperwork. You still need to bring the title or lender information, your ID, registration and keys. Read everything before signing, and keep copies. Our trade-in vs private sale guide explains the trade-offs.