Used Car Inspection Checklist (Printable)

This checklist is the inspection you do yourself before deciding whether a used car is worth a professional pre-purchase inspection. It takes 45 minutes to an hour, needs no special skills, and will rule out most bad cars. Print this page, bring a flashlight, and work through it in order.

It does not replace a mechanic. A car that passes your inspection should still get a pre-purchase inspection on a lift before you pay, especially if it is expensive, high-mileage or out of warranty.

• This checklist and a pen
• A bright flashlight
• Paper towels or a rag (for checking fluids)
• A tire tread depth gauge, or a penny and a quarter
• A small magnet, wrapped in a cloth so it does not scratch paint
• An inexpensive OBD-II scanner if you have one (see our OBD-II scanner guide)
• Your phone, for photos of the VIN, odometer, tires and any damage
• A friend, if possible, to watch lights and listen while you test

• VIN on the windshield, the driver's door jamb and the title all match
• VIN decoded with our free VIN decoder; year, model, engine and trim match the listing
• Open recalls checked by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls (opens in a new tab) (see used car recalls)
• Title is in the seller's name, and the title status is clean (not salvage, rebuilt, flood or lemon, unless you knowingly accept it)
• If there is a loan, the seller has a plan to pay off the lender and release the title
• Service records available, and the mileage on them climbs steadily
• Odometer reading is plausible for the car's age and condition; our mileage checker compares it to typical use
• For a dealer sale, the FTC Buyers Guide is posted in the window and says "as is" or describes the warranty

A title brand check is worth paying for. The federal National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) (opens in a new tab) lists approved providers that report title brands and certain salvage and junk records.

Also look up the model year itself. Our research pages, for example /cars/toyota/camry/2017, show recalls, owner complaints by component and safety ratings for that year, so you know which problems to look for on this particular car.

Walk around the car in daylight, then crouch and look along each side at an angle to see ripples.

• Panel gaps even and consistent on both sides (hood, doors, trunk)
• Paint color and texture match on all panels; no overspray on rubber seals, trim or glass
• No rust bubbles on wheel arches, rocker panels, door bottoms and the trunk floor edges
• Magnet sticks evenly on steel body panels (heavy body filler weakens it; some panels are aluminum or plastic, so check the same panel on both sides)
• Windshield free of cracks and large chips; all glass has matching manufacturer markings
• Headlights clear and matching, not one new and one yellowed (can indicate front-end damage)
• Doors, hood, trunk and fuel door open and close smoothly
• No water lines, silt or mud in hidden areas like the trunk spare-tire well or under seats (see our flood damage guide)

• Tread depth checked on every tire, inner and outer edges. Most states set a minimum of 2/32 inch; many experts suggest replacing at 4/32 inch, and earlier for winter driving. A penny inserted head-first that shows all of Lincoln's head means about 2/32 inch or less.
• Wear even across the tread. Wear on one edge suggests alignment or suspension problems; cupping suggests worn shocks or struts.
• All four tires the same brand and size (mismatched tires on AWD vehicles can stress the drivetrain)
• Tire age checked on the sidewall DOT code: the last four digits are week and year, so "2321" means week 23 of 2021. Many manufacturers recommend replacing tires after a certain number of years regardless of tread; check the tire maker's guidance.
• No bulges, cuts or plugs near the sidewall
• Wheels free of cracks and heavy curb damage
• Spare tire, jack and lug wrench present

Our guide to checking tire tread explains measurement in detail.

• Engine oil at the correct level; color amber to dark brown, not milky or gritty
• Underside of the oil filler cap free of thick sludge or a milky, mayonnaise-like residue (possible coolant contamination)
• Coolant at the correct level in the reservoir; clean, correct color, no oily film
• Transmission fluid (if there is a dipstick) at level, not dark brown or burnt-smelling
• Brake fluid within the marks on the reservoir
• Belts free of cracks and fraying; hoses firm, not swollen or soft
• No fresh oil, coolant or fluid leaks on the engine, under it, or on the ground
• Battery terminals clean; battery date code checked (most batteries last several years; see how long batteries last)
• No signs of rodent nests, chewed wiring or a suspiciously clean engine on an otherwise dirty car (a fresh pressure wash can hide leaks)

• Odometer reading photographed; matches the paperwork
• All warning lights come on briefly when the ignition is turned on, then go off after the engine starts. A light that never illuminates at key-on may have been disabled.
• No check engine, airbag, ABS, TPMS or traction control lights left on
• Air conditioning blows cold; heater blows hot; fan works on all speeds
• All windows, locks, mirrors, seats, sunroof and wipers work
• Infotainment, backup camera, sensors, USB and Bluetooth work
• Seat belts latch and retract on every seat
• Wear on the steering wheel, pedals and driver's seat is consistent with the mileage
• No musty or mildew smell, no damp carpet, no rust on seat rails or under-dash brackets (flood signs)
• No strong air freshener masking smells

• Engine starts promptly without long cranking
• No loud knocking, ticking or rattling that lasts more than a few seconds
• Idle is smooth and steady
• No blue smoke (burning oil) or thick white smoke that smells sweet (coolant) from the exhaust. Light vapor on a cold day is normal.
• If you have a scanner: no stored or pending codes, and check readiness monitors. Several "not ready" monitors can mean codes were recently cleared. Look up any codes on our OBD-II code pages.

Drive on city streets, a bumpy road and the highway if possible. Turn the radio off.

• Steering straight when driving straight; no pull to one side
• No clunks over bumps, no excessive bounce after a dip
• Brakes stop straight and smoothly, with no grinding, squealing or pulsing (see car shakes when braking)
• Brake pedal firm, not soft or sinking
• Automatic transmission shifts smoothly and promptly, with no slipping, flare in rpm or harsh engagement into drive or reverse
• Manual transmission clutch engages smoothly, not high on the pedal; no grinding between gears
• Acceleration is strong and smooth with no hesitation or misfiring
• No vibration at highway speed
• No humming or growling that changes with speed (wheel bearings)
• Temperature gauge rises to normal and stays there
• After the drive, park and look underneath again for new drips; listen for odd noises with the engine idling

You do not need a lift for a basic look. Do not crawl under a car supported only by a jack.

• No heavy rust on the frame, subframes, brake lines or fuel lines (surface rust on exhaust parts is normal)
• No fresh leaks from the engine, transmission, differential or shocks
• Exhaust intact without loud leaks or makeshift repairs
• CV axle boots not torn and slinging grease (front-wheel and all-wheel drive)
• No bent or kinked suspension components or signs of frame straightening

If the car passes, book a professional pre-purchase inspection. Use anything you found, like worn tires or a needed brake job, as a basis for negotiation, using a written repair estimate where you can. Our cost of ownership tool helps you budget for what you are taking on.

If you buy it, add the car to your free CarManager garage by VIN, log the inspection results, and set reminders for whatever needs attention soon.