2010 Chevrolet Malibu fuel/propulsion system problems

“WHILE TRAVELING AT 60 MPH, LOST POWER FOR A SPLIT SECOND THEN REGAINED. ABOUT 5 MILES TOWARD DESTINATION, AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT I WAS ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A RIGHT TURN & WHEN I ACCELERATED, THE CAR COMPLETELY DIED WITH LINE OF TRAFFIC BEHIND ME. SHOULD THIS CAR HAVE DIED IN THE MIDST OF HEAVY RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC WE COULD HAVE CAUSED A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WITH A CHAIN REACTION OF VEHICLES PILING UP BEHIND ME & POSSIBLE INJURIES. . WE WERE SLOWLY CREEPING AROUND THE CORNER TRYING TO CATCH A CLEAR PATH TO PROCEED WHEN THE CAR WENT DEAD. THERE HAVE PREVIOUSLY BEEN PROBLEMS WHEN AFTER DRIVING FOR 30 MINUTES THEN RETURNING TO THE CAR IT WOULD NOT START, CRANKED BUT NOT START WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS PRESENT.. BUT AFTER REPEATED RESTART ATTEMPTS IT WOULD START MAYBE AN HOUR LATER. BUT THIS TIME IT DIED IN TRAFFIC 3 DAYS AGO AND WE HAD TO BE TOWED HOME, IT STILL WILL NOT START. I'VE READ ONLINE ABOUT MANY OTHER MALIBU OWNERS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH CONCERNS OF ACCIDENTS. NO ENGINE OR DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AND A DEALER COULD NOT GET IT TO CODE. THE UNSAFE PROBLEM IS THE CAR DYING IN THE TRAFFIC WITH NO WARNING IN FRONT OF A LONG LINE OF TRAFFIC.”

“I HAVE A 2010 AND REPEATEDLY HAVE ISSUES. IT HAS BEEN TO THE DEALER AS IT COMPLETELY LOST POWER IN RUSH HOUR. CAR DASH SAID SERVICE ABS, POWER, SAVER MODE, TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE ESC AND THEN DIED. I TOOK TO SHOP AND THEY REPLACED THE PCM IS WHAT THEY TOLD ME. CAR HAS SINCE HAD LOSE OF POWER, SLUGGISH, DIES PERIODICALLY, AND NOW ALMOST 3 YEARS AFTER THOUSAND DOLLAR REPAIR NOT TO MENTION THE AIR BAG LIGHT THAT IS ON THAT THEY ARE TELLING ME WILL COST AT LEAST 1000 DOLLARS AS WELL TO REPAIR AS MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THAT IT IS A SAFTEY CONCERN. MY CAR DIED AGAIN WHILE COMING THROUGH A INTERSECTION AND THE P0341 HAS COME UP AND BEEN REPLACE3D FOUR TIMES SINCE FEBRUARY 2019. THIS CAR IS A DANGER AND I AM FORCED TO DRIVE IT WHEN IT RUNS AS I HAVE SO MUCH MONEY INVESTED I CANT AFFORD A NEW ONE. I HAVE ALSO REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY AND JUST ABOUT EVERY SENSOR UNDER THE HOOD INCLUDING SPARK PLUGS AND BATTERY AND CAR IS STILL ACTING UP. WHY ARE THEY NOT HELPING US. SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET KILLED. IT STALLS SUDDENLY AND WITH LITTLE TO NO WARNING. I AM TERRIFIED TO TRANSPORT MY KIDS IN THIS CAR. PLEASE HELP US'”

“TRANSMISSION FAILURE, CAR WILL TURN OFF ON INTERSTATE OR HIGHWAY WITHOUT WARNING, CAR WILL SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING , ROLL BACKWARDS, WON'T ACCELERATE. HAD TO GET TOWED 3 TIMES! AFTER NEW TRANSMISSION , SENSORS AND FUEL PUMP INJECTOR , THE CAR IS STILL DOING THE SAME THING ! THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND A LACK OF RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEFECTED PRODUCTS AND PRICE GAUGING MECHANICS ! PROBLEM IS STILL EXISTING. I SEE THIS CAR IS UNDER MANY RECALLS AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS BUILT IN KOREA!”

“BRAKE LIGHT CONSTANTLY FLUCTUATING WITHOUT THE BRAKE BEING PRESSED, VERY DANGEROUS FOR ME AND MY CHILD, HEADLIGHTS CONSTANTLY GOING OUT SPECIFICALLY THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE, ALMOST GO CAUSE AN ACCIDENT AND PEOPLE THING I'M THE ONE PRESSING THE BRAKES, IT DOES THIS WHEN DRIVING OR WHEN IT PARKED, IF I TAP THE BRAKE IT'LL GO OFF FOR A FEW SECOND THEN COME RIGHT BACK ON. ALSO CAR KEEP THROWING A CODE SAYING IT'S RUNNING RICH EVEN THO I CAN LOCATE THE PROBLEM I BELIEVE IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH A SENSEOR OR WIRING OR THE FUEL INJECTOR, IF THERE ARE ANY RECALLS FOR THIS VEHICLE I WOULD LIE FOR THEM TO BE FIX ALL AT ONCE BECAUSE I HAVE TO USE THIS CARD DAILY FOR MYSELF AND MY DAUGHTER AND I JUST WANT IT TO BE SAFE FOR MY CHILD AND I AS WELL AS OTHER DRIVERS IN THE ROAD.”

“CAR INTERMITTENTLY STALLS GOING HOME FROM WORK, AND AROUND TOWN. NEVER STALLS IN THE EARLY MORNING (DARK OUT). THE WARMER THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE IS THE MORE IT STALLS, WITH THE HOTTEST DAY SO FAR CAUSING THE CAR TO HAVE TO BE TOWED BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT RESTART UNTIL THE NEXT DAY WHEN IT WAS COOLER OUT. MOST STALLS HAPPEN WITHIN 7 TO 15 MINUTES ON THE SECOND TRIP OF THE DAY (AROUND 2 PM), AND THE CAR HAS TO SIT FOR 20 SECONDS OR LONGER BEFORE IT WILL RESTART. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON FOR THIS EVENT. THE ELECTRICAL POWER IS STILL ON WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE STALL IS QUIET AND PRESSING THE GAS PEDDLE ONLY SPEEDS UP HOW FAST IT STALLS. MOST OF THE STALLS HAPPEN AT 1500 RPM OR LESS, AND 45 MPH OR LESS. THE STALLS HAPPEN WHILE MOVING, ACCELERATING, SLOWING DOWN, WHILE STOPPED IN GEAR, AND STOPPED IN PARK. THE EVENT FEELS LIKE THE ENGINE POWER CUTS OUT WITH NO WARNING, AND THE RPM GAUGE AND CAR START SLOWING DOWN. IF THE CAR CAN COAST FOR 15 TO 20 SECONDS, IT HAS FIXED ITSELF AND STOPPED STALLING (AS LONG AS RPMS DID NOT DROP TOO FAR) ON A FEW OCCASIONS. CAR HAS BEEN TO DEALER 3 TIMES, AND IS GOING BACK AGAIN NEXT WEEK FOR SAME UNFIXED ISSUE. MOST DRIVING IS CITY…”

“THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE FUSE BOX LOCATED IN THE TRUNK. MY CAR HAS COMPLETELY LOST ENGINE POWER WHILE DRIVING ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. FUEL PUMP, ALTERNATOR, AND BATTERY HAVE NEEDED REPLACED. THERE IS A SHORT IN OR NEAR THIS REAR FUSE BOX. FUEL PUMP RELAY HAS BEEN REPLACED, AND CONNECTIONS GREASED. TEMPORARILY FIXED, THEN A FEW DAYS LATER SHUTS OFF WHILE RUNNING. FROM RESEARCHING, THIS APPEARS TO BE EXTREMELY COMMON WITH THIS MODEL ACROSS MULTIPLE YEARS, WITH THE WIRE LEADING TO THE FUEL PUMP RELAY BURNING UP AND SHORTING. CLEARLY POOR WIRING. AT LEAST THREE TIMES MY CAR HAS COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN WHILE IN MOTION WITH NO WARNING AT ALL. MULTIPLE CRANK/NO START SITUATIONS AS WELL. MY NEXT OPTION IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE FUSE BLOCK, BUT THAT WILL NOT FIX WIRING DESIGN. HAVE BEEN TOWED MULTIPLE TIMES IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.”