2010 Jeep Liberty electrical system problems

“The contact owns a 2010 Jeep Liberty. The contact stated while her husband was driving approximately 60 MPH, the driver lowered the driver's side window when a smoke odor was present. The driver saw a flame burst from the door-mounted electrical panel with the door lock and window controls. The contact blew the flames out and then returned to the residence. The contact mentioned that her husband's clothes had a strong smoke odor due to the failure. No warning light was illuminated. A dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. Additionally, the contact stated that before the electrical fire, during brake work on the vehicle, a mechanic had advised that a wire harness on the tow hitch had melted and had warned the contact not to use the tow hitch. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 166,000.”

“I HAVE A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY SPORT AND IT'S HEADLIGHTS CONTINUE TO GO OFF ON ME WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY AND IT'S ONLY NOTICEABLE AT NIGHT IN WHICH IS NOT SAFE. I'VE CHANGED BOTH LIGHT BULBS IN WHICH WORKED AND THEN WENT OUT WITHIN 20 MINS AGAI AT NIGHT ON THE HIGHWAY. THEN I CHANGED THE 30AMP/RELAY. THEN I CHANGED THE DIMMER SWITCH. ALL OF THIS DID NOT WORK. THEN THE DEALER CHANGED THE WINDSHIELD THAT IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE AND IT WORKED FOR ABOUT A WEEK WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE LIGHT GOING OUT BUT WORKING WHEN I SHIMMY THE CORD OF CONDUCTOR. BUT LIKE IT DID PREVIOUSLY IT'S NOW NOT JUST THE PASSENGER LIGHT AS BOTH LIGHTS ARE AGAIN NOT WORKING. AND THEY ARE STARTING TO FLICKER THEN JUST GOES OUT ALTOGETHER TO WHERE NOW THE SHIMMY IS NO LONGER EFFECTIVE. NOW I'VE DONE ALL I CAN DO ON THE ELECTRICAL REALM BUT IT SEEMS AS THOUGH EVERYTHING I'VE ATTEMPTED IS JUST TEMPORARY OR DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP!”

“TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY. WHILE REVERSING INTO THE DRIVEWAY, ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF, AND WAS UNABLE TO RESTART. THE CONTACT DETERMINED THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A DEFECTIVE ALTERNATOR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 92,000.”

“I LEASE MY VEHICLE FROM JD BYRIDER WE FIRST NOTICED THE WINDOWS AFTER MY PURCHASE.I WENT THERE 3 TIMES HE SAID HE WOULD HAVE TO TAKE THE DOOR APART.WHILE AT THE DRIVE INNS I REALIZED THERE WAS NO HEAT I WAS FREEZING THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIX IT WORKED LIKE 2 DAYS THEN STOPPED.THE 4 WHEEL DRIVE STICKS I'M NOT SURE IF ITS ELECTRICAL CUZ THE WINDOWS DONT WORK N WHEN IT RAINS THE TAILGATE LIGHT COMES ON WITH THE INSIDE LIGHTS?SINCE I BOUGHT IT THE WHEELS MAKE A REALLY LOUD NOISE YOU CANNOT HAVE WINDOWS DOWN ITS BEHIND MY SEAT.I HAVE READ ABOUT PPLS CARS CATCHING ON FIRE THEY HAD NO WAY TO ESCAPE DUE TO WINDOWS IN THESE JEEPS I HAVE BEEN IN A BURNING VAN ON ROUTE 20 IN GIRARD COMMUNITY AUTO DID SOMETHING BAD TO MY VAN AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME ME DRIVING IN YEARS.MY 30 DAYS ARE UP AND I CANNOT PAY TO FIX THESE PROBLEMS I PAY $380 A MONTH FOR CAR PAYMENT & $700 RENT I HAVE 4 CHILDREN AND A GRANDSON WE NEED HEAT A SAFE VEHICLE TO DRIVE”

“THIS CAR HAS ELETRICAL ISSUES, WHILE DRIVING, THE HORN STARTED GOING OFF ON HIS OWN. I NEVER USE MY HORN, AND CAN COUNT ON 1 HAND HOW MANY TIMES I USED IT. THE REPAIR COST ME OVER $800. I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THE MOTOR FOR THE REAR DOOR, I NEVER USE THE HATCH, AND I HAD TO REPLACE. MY CAR IS NOW CURRENTLY BEING REPAIR FOR ANOTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUE. THE PASSAGER DOOR IS CLOSED, HOWEVER THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT IS ON CAUSING MY INTERIOR LIGHT NOT TO STAY ON. THE PASSENGER DOOR IS COMPLETELY CLOSED- DUE TO THIS ELECTRICAL ISSUE MY LIGHTS WILL NOT SHUT OFF AND WILL KILL THE BATTERY. I HAVE ALSO EXPERIENCE BOTH WINDOWS DECIDED TO OPEN AND CLOSE WHILE DRIVING ON THEIR OWN. THIS CAR IS AN ELECTRICAL DISASTER. I DO NOT DRIVE LONG DISTANCE, JUST LOCAL. ITS A 2010 AND I HAVE 75, 000 MILES ON IT.”

“1. SEAT BELT WILL NOT LATCH IN REAR DRIVER SEAT TO PROPERLY RESTRAIN CHILD. CHRYSLER WILL NOT COVER SO CHILD IS BEING LATCH WITH A REAR DRIVER SIDE SHOULDER BELT CONNECTED TO THE MIDDLE SEAT LATCH. 2. WHEEL SPEED SENSOR HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE, CAUSES ABS, ESC AND 4WD TO STOP WORKING. THIS HAPPENS TYPICALLY WHILE DRIVING EITHER RESIDENTIAL OR HIGHWAY ROADS, RANDOM TIMES, TEMPERATURES AND SPEEDS. 3. DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR HAS STOPPED WORKING FOR THE FORTH TIME WHICH PREVENTS CHILD SAFETY LOCK FROM WORKING. THE DOOR CANNOT LOCK/UNLOCK OTHER THAN MANUALLY COMPRESSING THE LOCK FROM THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR THEREFORE I HAVE TO CLIMB IN THE BACK SEAT TO UNLOCK THE DOOR OR RISK MY CHILD OPENING THE DOOR WHILE DRIVING. THE OTHER THREE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY. 4. THE CLOCK LOSES A MINUTE TO TWO MINUTES A WEEK. 5. WHEN THE CAR IS IN OFF POSITION AND KEYS REMOVED FROM IGNITION, THE VEHICLE HAS ELECTRICAL SURGES THROUGH THE CONSOLE AFTER SITTING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. THE BATTERY HAS NOT BEEN RUN DOWN, I'M NOT SURE WHERE THE POWER IS COMING FROM. 6. THE VEHICLE STARTED TO LOSE POWER ON HIGHWAY AND STOPPED SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE, AT…”