2013 Ford Edge fuel/propulsion system problems

“I am filing a consumer complaint against Ford Motor Company regarding a known, severe safety defect in my 2013 Ford Edge 3.5L AWD. The internal water pump has failed, leaking green coolant onto the ground and threatening catastrophic engine failure. Ford designed this vehicle with an internal water pump that dumps coolant into the engine oil when it fails, hiding the defect from consumers until the powertrain is destroyed. Furthermore, the All-Wheel Drive Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is overheating due to a design that labels the fluid 'lifetime' and prevents standard servicing. I purchased this vehicle for $14,400 and have invested $4,000 in maintenance, and I am seeking state consumer protection advocacy regarding Ford's deceptive engineering practices."”

“I have several different things going on. First of all my rear turn signals do not work, nor do my rear hazard lights. I've taken it to a mechanic who has extensively looked at this and has determined that it's the body control modular and is suggested replacement. I have been waiting for several months for this part to come in but he keeps telling me it's on back order. Also, my radiator fan/assembly went bad and had to be replaced. Upon the mechanic installing the new fan assembly, I had numerous fuses blown and that is when my blinker and hazard light issue started. This is a major safety concern as signaling the direction that you're turning is very important to other drivers. Additionally, it is against the law not to use signals. I'm constantly in fear that someone is going to rear in me because of my inability to signal when switching lanes and or turning. Additionally, my back up camera stopped working shows a black screen with a notice to contact the dealer. Another issue I have is that my door ajar light is illuminated all the time. I often feel unsafe and fear that the door may just come open at any time, I am unable to lock my doors with the…”

“I purchased this vehicle used in August 2025 from the estate of a friend's relative. The records show it was meticulously maintained and no recall notices have been unaddressed. The prior owner used it infrequently and it still has just under 90k miles. There were no major engine issues when my local repair shop (over 12 years and 3 vehicles) inspected all systems, and the vehicle passed for PA state inspection and emissions. However, driving more, I noticed that the brakes would intermittently become "mushy" or "hard" and overall less responsive. I needed to use a lot of force to fully stop over a longer distance. There was also a hissing noise while braking and sometimes the cabin air fan would blast on suddenly. Then, while stopped at a red light and applying the brakes, the engine shut off and check engine light came on. My mechanic detected O2 sensor codes P2195/P2197 indicating "stuck lean." But nothing about the brake booster, and so we cleaned it up a bit and tried to get more of an understanding of the issue. Now I know that the compromised engine vacuum from the booster air leak is impacting the fuel/air balance. Extremely unsafe. This has now…”

“Brake booster went bad on the vehicle after 8 years. Brake pedal had to be pressed to the floor. The fuel line had a leak so anytime gas was put into the vehicle it would leak down the frame to the ground. Wiring for the back up camera goes in & out. I’m afraid of the brakes not working & a fire being caused by the leaking fuel or faulty electrical lines connecting the rear camera to the display.”

“While driving I came upon a red light. While sitting at the red light I noticed my car began to loose power and started shaking. My RPM dropped to almost 0. My car was loosing power while driving. No light has appeared on my dashboard, my gas tank said I had 98 miles till empty. I had two young kids in my vehicle. I anxiously started tapping the gas a little and made in into the nearest parking lot. This is unacceptable as I was in the middle of the road with children. I sat in my car with it on idle and nothing happened.”

“The fuel tank has a crack in the top causing fuel leaking when the tank is full. This has been confirmed by an independent service center. cost to replace the tank is approximately 3000$”