2011 Mazda CX-9 power train problems

“The front driver-side lower ball joint suffered a catastrophic structural failure and sheared completely apart while moving. This vehicle was previously serviced under Safety Recall Campaign 15V451000 / Mazda Recall 8515G for this exact defect. The recall remedy part failed a second time, collapsing the front wheel assembly, ripping the CV axle completely out of the transmission casing, causing a hazardous transmission fluid spill, and leaving the vehicle stranded and immobilized in the middle of a live roadway in the dark”

“I had an issue with the AWD not engaging and the 4x4 light illuminating when driving on snow and ice. No indicators when driving under normal conditions. I had no traction and had difficulty maintaining control of the vehicle while driving at speeds less than 25 mph. I had difficulty gettting momentum from a stop as the tires were spinning and engaging tracion. I took the car into a Mazda dealership for a full circle inspection and found that the 4x4 light was illuminating due to worn-out splines connecting the transfer case. The technician was able to spin the driveshaft, indicating the splines are damaged and need to be replaced. Recommendations were to replace the transmission and transfer case with a repair estimate of $5469.61. Additionally, the technician observed some seeping of oil coming from the tiing cover and reccommends re-sealing it as well as replacing the water pump ( another known failure issue in which Mazda is aware of). Cost estimate of $4319.78. The technician also observed a crack in the right rear differential mount with a repair cost of $442.10. In short, Mazda knew about all these problems. They issued a warrenty extention from my…”

“When getting off highway engine began to knock. Engine stalled and would not restart. Upon inspection the water pump was found to have failed and leaked engine coolant into oil. This caused engine to have a complete failure. No check engine light illuminated but when car was scanned multiple codes were found. The car was also found to have a bad Transfer Case.”

“WHILE DRIVING THE CAR ON A COUNTY ROAD, WITH THE SPEED UNDER 40 MPH, AND FOLLOWING THE BEND IN THE ROAD TO LEAD TO GETTING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE CAR JERKED FORWARD AS IF I HIT SOMETHING. AS I CONTINUED TO DRIVE, THE CAR WAS MAKING LOUD CLINKING SOUNDS AND WAS JERKING IN MOTION. NO WARNING LIGHTS WENT ON. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO CONTINUE TO DRIVE, CLANGING NOISES COULD BE HEARD AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO JERK FORWARD. THE CAR WAS UNABLE TO BE DRIVEN. AFTER HAVING IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC, IT WAS DETERMINE THE PROBLEM WAS THE TRANSFER CASE. THE SPLINES BETWEEN THE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE HAD BEEN EATEN AWAY BY RUST. THE SEAL HAD NOT KEPT WATER OUT AS IT WAS DESIGNED TO DO. A NEW TRANSFER CASE WAS ORDERED AS WELL AS A NEW TRANSMISSION. THE REPLACEMENT TRANSFER CASE HAD SHOWN SIGNS OF THE SAME ISSUES WITH THE SPLINES. ANOTHER (2ND ONE) TRANSFER CASE HAD TO BE ORDERED. I HAD PURCHASED THIS CAR IN FEBRUARY 2019 USED. THE CAR HAD A CLEAN TITLE, NO ACCIDENTS AND WAS SERVICED REGULARLY. WITHIN 1 YEAR, I HAD TO PAY OUT $5,000.00 TO REPLACE TRANSFER CASE AND TRANSMISSION. I LOST THE USE OF MY CAR FOR OVER 3 WEEKS (DUE TO THE PROBLEMS WITH GETTING A TRANSFER CASE THAT WAS…”

“THE BRAKE PEDAL SEEMS HARD TOO STOP THE CAR WHEN IN MOTION ON PUBLIC STREETS, VEHICLE CONTINUES TOO ROLL UPON PUMPING BRAKES, HAVE TOO CONTINUOUSLY PUMP THE BRAKE HARD TOO STOP THE VEHICLE, HAD THE FRONT BRAKES REPLACED RECENTLY, AND BRAKE PEDAL IS STILL NOT FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY, POSSIBLY THE BRAKE BOOSTER.”

“SUDDENLY STARTS TO ACCELERATE WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, STOP SIGN OR I AM LETTING A PERSON OUT AND STILL IN DRIVE AND MY FOOT IS ON THE BREAK. IT HAS DONE IT 4 TIME SINCE I GOT HER BOUGHT 02/03/2020 THE LAST WAS 06/06/2020. I HAVE TO PRESS DOWN ON THE BREAK VERY HARD TO KEEP IT FROM GOING FORWARD LASTS ONLY A SECOND OR TWO. *TR”