2018 Tesla Model 3 wheels problems

“Heard a clunk noise when the vehicle turned at a low speed. Inspected the vehicle but nothing seemed amiss. No digital warnings either. Started driving but the steering was weird and pulled to the left. Then the front left tire started shredding and the wheel was displaced. The tow truck guy said that the suspension seems to be the culprit. The car is now on just the wheel. Tesla collision has still not looked at it but gave a quote of 5-6K to start and going up to 12K or more (if the HV battery got damaged). FYI, tire pressures were normal when this happened.”

“We noticed that one of our tires was leaning inwards and the alignment was completely shot. There was no event that caused this but just noticed it one day driving. After having to replace two new tires, we took it into the Tesla dealership and they found that the control arm and suspension as well as the frame underneath is broken. The car has a clean tittle and this problem use to be covered by Tesla but for some reason now is not and this is a big steering and safety issue! We should not be responsible for the cost to fix the car if this has happened so often in the past!”

“The bolt/fastner holding the control arms almost backed all the way out. I was driving and heard metal sound it got worse on the drive home. I also noticed the alignment to get worse and when I got home I looked and the bolt/ fastner almost came out. There is a tesla recall for only a small percent for my year with that issue. Tesla wants 4k to replace it. It is a huge safety issue. I have a family and it could have been serious if it detached not only to me and my family but other vehicles other pedestrians.”

“On [XXX], I started driving to work when I heard an click from my front wheel. The car was driving without any problem. After a while when making a U-turn, the car front wheel got completely locked with a "grinding sound" and I lost control of the car. Fortunately, it was at low speed and I just stopped driving, If it was at high speed, it could've been a horrible situation. I had to park my car, call Tesla and tow the car to them as it was not drivable. After initial evaluation, they said the bolts of the right suspension lateral arm were not only loose, but detached and fell off, so there was physical locking between the wheel and the lateral arm. Also the bolt attachment site at the subframe was completely worn out so they needed to change the whole subframe and both lateral arms. Beside a clear RECALL from TESLA models 3/y made between 2018-2020 about the exact same issue, and this event being for the same exact problem, Tesla keeps not appreciating that and says that recall is gone. Tesla says the loose component will be audible before it completely separates, but it was not in my case. Looking at people's posts in public media, I strongly believe Tesla is…”

“Tesla Model 3 Performance (M3P) comes with unrealistic "thin" wall tires on 20" wheels that easily POP when they hit potholes, nails, gutters, median divides, gashes in the road, etc. American roads are poorly maintained if at all by transportation departments. Only thick walled tires are suitable for roads. Tesla Model 3 LR (Long Range) and SR (Standard Range) comes with 18" wheels and tires, giving it 2 inches more of padding for both a smoother ride and fewer replacements. Each tire on my M3P costs $400-$500 to replace! That's around $2,000 for a set of four tires! Whereas 18 inch tires are more common and cost about half of that, about $200 per tire, $800 for a set. The remedy here is at least 19 inch wheel and tire replacements as a recall provided for free by Tesla to provide more padding and fewer tire replacements to deal with typical crappy roads.”

“Clunk and popping sound while driving, especially while turning the wheel or going over bumps in road. Maneuverability and control of vehicle felt impacted which could have resulted in an accident, damage to property, and injury and/or death of people. The issue was reproduced at the vehicle's Service Center and identified as a lose bolt that connects the front suspension lateral links to the subframe. This issue sounds very similar to a previous recall for the same make, model, and year of this vehicle, but the VIN for this particular vehicle was not included in that recall.”